Tuscany’s Undiscovered Maremma Region


  It was 1985, and I’d landed on my feet in Italy. The sun was low in the sky as I left Rome, driving with my Italian friend Marella Caracciolo. As we headed north, the city’s melancholy hinterland gave way to more pastoral and more beautiful surroundings. Cypresses and umbrella pines cast long shadows as […]


Capalbio and its beauties


Capalbio is a beautiful medieval town in southern Maremma. The Municipality is the most southwestern municipality in Tuscany along the border with Lazio. The characteristic village, natural surroundings and long sandy beaches attract thousands of visitors every year. The name Capalbio is thought to come from the Latin caput album (bald head) which is the […]


Where the yachts are; tales of an italian anchorage


In the crowded months of July and August, sailing yachts at Porto Ercole’s small public quay (no dock fee, but little fresh water) are tied up eight-in-line, rather the way souvenir Indian elephants are linked, an arrangement that encourages new friendships and a lazy reluctance to put out to sea. Ports promise a thousand hopes, […]


Bucking the Tide on the Tuscan Shore


ALMOST any connoisseur of the world’s great coasts falls hard for Sorrento, Positano and Amalfi. They’re freakish collisions of rock and sea, and the stretch of shoreline they straddle in southern Italy’s Campania region is the geography of pure fantasy. The northern Italian region of Liguria, too, has its breathtaking dreamscapes, where mountain halts only […]


Tuscany without tears


At the onset of their tempestuous affair in 1962, Richard Burton and Liz Taylor escaped from the set of Cleopatra in Rome, dodged the paparazzi (as well as their respective spouses) and headed up the coast to Monte Argentario. They considered that this unspoilt seaside enclave on the Tuscan coast was the ideal place for […]